purchased and reviewed by ThoraSTooth
artwork by Julie Dillon for Black Phoenix
Scent of the Day: Iulia, l'Artiste du Diable (Carnaval Diabolique 2015) --White tea, sugar cane, orange blossom, rockrose, lemon balm, white mint, and honey.
I fell for this new scent at the Bay Area Lunacy event at the end of August. It's re-engineered from the previous Artiste du Diable scent ("Gennivre") which was named for a previous CD label illustrator. (The current version is named for Julie Dillon.) I've never tried Gennivre, so I don't know how this compares to the previous version.
On first sniff it's tea, honey, mint, and a beautiful floral. Normally I don't like orange blossom, but if that's what this is, then I may have to change my mind. Wet on my skin, it's everything I love about Embalming Fluid -- the tea, the herbal lemon, the perkiness - plus a really beautiful floral. If the Lab description didn't say otherwise, I'd think this was white ginger lily instead of orange blossom.
As it matures I get more floral and honey. But the lemon gets deeper and a bit more sugary, more like preserved lemon peel. It keeps the floral from collapsing in an excess of indoles. The result is a happy, sweet, but not too pungent floral with lemony-mint underpinnings. This is probably the best orange blossom has ever smelled on my skin chemistry.
It's hard to reproduce the original testing ground for this scent -- a warm crowded shop, humid with many bodies -- but the scent still loves me in the relatively cool, dry, airy environs of my house.